No matter what design you choose for your custom made shoes,
at TLS all are custom made to fit

This drawing will explain some shoe-terms you may or may not know

The different shoe Designs of our custom made shoes

The bespoke Brogue

The design was developed in the 18th century in the Scottish Highlands where farmers punched holes into the toe caps of their shoes to be able to drain water from their shoes. They had to cross many streams on the way to their fields and this way, there was not need to remove the shoes to drain them. This design was later adapted by London designers who added a second layer of leather which allowed them to close the Brogue holes, yet retain the attractive design.

Modern or classic, today, the Brogue is well established as a Gentleman's dress shoe. There are also a number of sub-categories like the "Long-wing Brogue" the "Full Brogue" (picture) the "Austerity Brogue" .... 


The bespoke Oxford

Oxfords first appeared in Scotland and Ireland, where they are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. However, the shoes were later named Oxfords after Oxford University. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter-brogue), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue).


The bespoke Derby

A Derby shoe (also called Gibson) is a style of Men's shoe characterized by quarters with shoelace eyelets that are sewn on top of the vamp. This construction method, also known as "open lacing", contrasts with that of the Oxfords.


The bespoke Monk strap

The monk strap shoe found popularity with monks in Europe because it was more protective than the sandals they normally wore. They were hard wearing and long lasting, making them a solid choice as a work-shoe.

The obvious hallmark of a monk strap shoe is its lack of lacing. The construction of a monk strap is similar to that of a Derby or Blucher, with the quarters overlapping the upper vamp or tongue of the shoe, but instead of meeting in the middle to be laced the shoe is closed by a buckle and strap on the side. Today it has a place among Oxfords as a “formal” shoe and can be worn to most occasions.

Monk strap shoes are made as either single or double Monk with respectively a single or double strap - buckle.

The bespoke Loafer or slip-on

A bespoke shoe company based in London created the first loafer around the middle of the 19th century as a country house shoe for the landed gentry and the royal family. In the USA the loafer developed in its origins from the native Moccasin and was refined in Euro thereafter by the Italians.

Today, the Loafer or as in the USA often called slip-on has made it from a purely casual shoe to be accepted as a Dress shoe and is worn with business suits as well as Jeans. 


Elegant bespoke Spectator shoes

Are available in a variety of styles such as full Brogues , half Brogues, or as in this case elegant cap-toe Oxfords
Very fashionable during the "roaring 20's up until the 40's, this kind of shoe has experienced a total revival and become a must have part of the content of a Gentlemen's shoe collection today. This in part surely due to TV series like "Boardwalk Empire" in which Spectator shoes featured highly right at the start of every show.

Handmade on your own personal last, our Spectators will not only look sophisticated and stylish, but also be very comfortable.

Spectator shoes

The bespoke Ankle or short boot

These are the most widely-worn style of non-utility boots, usually under pants. Ankle boots are also the only type of fashion boot commonly worn by both men and women.

The most famous ankle boots are the Chelsea Boots, made famous by the Beatles during the 60's. This style is and will probably always be the most stylish and desired ankle or short boot. They are sleek, plain, without any decoration and work with most ensembles for both men and women.

Another classic would be the London Boot.

To the right

Chelsea boot with expanding side panel in the shaft

London Boots with laces

Below the highly desirable and always fashionable Monk strap boots