No matter what design you choose for your bespoke shoes,
at TLS all are handmade to measure for that perfect fit

Some terms used for shoes

The different shoe Designs of our bespoke shoes

The Brogue

This design was developed in the 18th century in the Scottish Highlands where farmers punched holed into the toe caps of their shoes to be able to drain water from their shoes. They had to cross many streams on the way to their fields and this way, there was not need to remove the shoes to drain them. This design was later adapted by London designers who added a second layer of leather which allowed them to close the Brogue holes, yet retain the attractive design.

Modern or classic, today, the Brogue is well established as a Gentleman's dress shoe in black leather as well as casual shoe if chosen in brown leather. There are also a number of sub-categories like the "Long-wing Brogue" the "Full Brogue" (picture) the "Austerity Brogue" "the Half Brogue" "the Quarter Brogue" 

The Oxford

Oxfords first appeared in Scotland and Ireland, where they are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. However, the shoes were later named Oxfords after Oxford University. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter-brogue), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue).

The Derby

A Derby shoe (also called Gibson) is a style of Men's shoe characterized by quarters with shoelace eyelets that are sewn on top of the vamp. This construction method, also known as "open lacing", contrasts with that of the Oxfords.

The Derby is at home in both categories, as a Dress shoe and as a casual shoe, mainly depending on the color chosen.

The Monk strap

The monk strap shoe found popularity with monks in Europe because it was more protective than the sandals they normally wore. They were hard wearing and long lasting, making them a solid choice as a work-shoe.

The obvious hallmark of a monk strap shoe is its lack of lacing. The construction of a monk strap is similar to that of a Derby or Blucher, with the quarters overlapping the upper vamp or tongue of the shoe, but instead of meeting in the middle to be laced the shoe is closed by a buckle and strap on the side. Today it has a place among Oxfords as a “formal” shoe and can be worn to most occasions.

Monk strap shoes are made as either single or double Monk with respectively a single or double strap - buckle.

The Loafer

A bespoke shoe company based in London created the first loafer around the middle of the 19th century as a country house shoe for the landed gentry and the royal family. In the USA the loafer developed in its origins from the native Moccasin and was refined in Euro thereafter by the Italians.

Today, the Loafer or as in the USA often called slip-on has made it from a purely casual shoe to be accepted as a Dress shoe (especially in black leather)and is worn with business suits as well as Jeans.